Learn about bust adjustments
So, first up… What is a full bust adjustment (FBA) or small bust adjustment (SBA)?
This is the most common way to make a bodice sewing pattern smaller or larger at the bust. By cutting the pattern pieces and slightly moving them, you can easily add or remove inches to the finished garment.
“Do I need a to make a bust adjustment?”
The best way to check if you need a bust adjustment is to make a toile of the bodice of the garment.
Try on the bodice toile and look for fit issues:
Look for pulling with strain lines (generally these will be diagonal and point towards your bust) or sagging across the bust and/or gaping armholes – these are signs you need an FBA or SBA
Look carefully at where the bust curve or dart points sit
For a darted bodice the end points should be approx. 2.5cm/1 inch from the bust Apex – the fullest part of the bust
Is the dart in the right place- is it too high or low? Is the waist dart too close or far from the centre front?
You may find that at this point you need to move the dart up or down.
“I think I need a bust adjustment… how can I check?”
Start by measuring your high bust measurement. This measurement is taken well above your bust over your breastbone and under your armpits and around your back, parallel to the floor.
Next measure your full bust, again with the tape measure parallel to the floor all the way around. Use a mirror or ask a friend to check this for you.
If you answer yes to any of the below, it’s likely you’ll need to make an FBA:
The difference between your high bust and full bust is more than 5cm/2″
The bust is often tighter, or pulls, and the armholes often pull and gape on RTW clothing
Your RTW cup size is larger than a B/C
If you answer yes to any of the below, it’s likely you’ll need to make an SBA:
The difference between your high bust and full bust is less than 3cm/1″
The bust is often loose, or gapes, on RTW clothing
Your RTW cup size is smaller than a B
I need to do an FBA/SBA…
