How to… Stabilise knit fabrics

Knit fabrics are stretchy and sometimes this stretch can be very useful, but sometimes it needs a little more control!

Kint fabrics are measured in stretch percentage and often you will find a pattern calls for a specific amount of stretch. Click here to find out how to calculate the stretch percentage of a fabric.

There are several ways to control and regulate the stretch of a knit fabric

1. Stay stitching - You can stitch using a long straight stitch within the seam allowance to prevent a fabric stretching out whilst it is handled during sewing

2. Clear elastic - This can be applied flat to a fabric to stop hold a fabric in lace and encourage t to return to its original shape once stretched.

Firmer tapes and ribbons can be used in areas where you might want to stop the fabric stretching at all, like shoulder seams.

3. Interfacings - Fusible Stretch Interfacing is a very thin knit fabric which has a heat activated glue on one side. The type I prefere is made by Vieseline.

However, we often prefer to use lightweight non-woven interfacing on jersey garments as this has some stretch but limits the fabric stretching out whilst it is being sewn, adding a little weight without weighing down or changing the overall behaviour of the fabric.

Apply interfacing following the manufacturers instructions and always use a pressing cloth.

4. Stabilise rolly edges by spraying them with a layer of spray starch then pressing the fabric dry.

I hope you have found this article helpful and feel confident to take control of knit fabric! If you are new to sewing knits, the Cosy Jersey Dress and Tunic is a great pattern to build your confidence!

New to working with Knits?

Find out all you need to know about Jersey Fabrics here!