How to… Make perfect darts

Darts add shape to fitted garments. They are usually used in close fitting woven garments but may also be included as a feature of more structured jersey garments too. They can also be used aesthetically to create style lines.

In this tutorial I’ll share a step by step guide to create smooth, even darts.

First, mark your dart points clearly on the wrong side of the fabric with a chalk marker, erasable marker or tailors tacks.

Then, bring together the two notches and pinch the dart end point with your other hand

Flipping the bulk of the fabric to the left, place the panel flat on the table and pin as shown.

Using an erasable marker, draw a line from the dart notches to the dart end point.

Following your marked line, stitch from the dart notches to the dart end point. Take the pins out as you stitch and don’t sew over them – they will distort the stitching line and may blunt or break your needle. When you reach the end carefully stitch off the fabric making sure to catch just a few threads of the fabric with the last few stitches.

Do not backstitch. Instead, cut the threads leaving some length and then tie a double knot to secure the end of the dart.

Press horizontal bust darts downwards toward the waist seam. Press vertical darts toward the center of the garment.

Using a tailors ham will help shape the curves you have created with the dart. Use a pressing cloth to protect delicate fabrics.

Smoothly does it!

Creating smooth darts on the Everyday Amazing Shift Dress allows the fun frill sleeves to get all the attention they deserve!

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How to…Choose the right needles for your fabric

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