How to… Measure Yourself for Dressmaking
Learn how to measure yourself so you can make clothes to fit you.
One of the main reasons to make your own clothes is to get garments to fit properly, so the first step is to choose the correct pattern size.
To determine what pattern size to cut out you will need to take some measurements. Take these wearing the underwear you would normally wear. Measurements are best taken in just underwear but you can take them over tight fitting clothing like a vest or t-shirt and leggings. We always recommend students wear this ‘sewing-suit’ to classes!
When measuring hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but not tight to your body. Do not add extra wiggle room - this is incorporated in pattern as “wearing ease”.
Ask for help from a sewing buddy if you can – it's much easier to take someone else's measurements accurately!
Initially you will need to take 3 measurements:
Bust
Take this around the fullest part of your bust, over your apex (nipples) and just above the back of your bra strap so that the tape measure is level all the way around.
Waist
Bend sideways to one side – the crease created is where your natural waistline is. Higher than you thought huh? People often incorrectly measure around their abdomen rather than their natural waistline. If you want a more visual clue of where to measure, tie a piece of elastic around your waist and have a little wiggle, where it comes to rest is your waistline
Hip
Take this around the fullest part of your bottom – not around your hip bone, again this is a common mistake when measuring the hips.
Depending on the pattern you are using, if your bra cup size is above a C cup in shop-bought bras, you may need to make a full bust adjustment. If your cup is an A or below, you may need a small bust adjustment.
Most commercial patterns are drafted for a B cup. My Handmade Wardrobe Patterns are drafted for a C-D cup (In the UK, the average bra size is 36D - Sept 2022).
Some pattern companies offer a variety of cup sizes and in this case it is still helpful to know what and where to ensure to check what dressmaking bra cup size to choose (this is different to your store-bought bra cup size).
The extra measurement you will need to take to determine if you need a full bust adjustment is your high bust.
To measure this, pull the tape measure high up into your armpits and measure just above the bra line at the back and as high up as possible along the front bust - you are aiming to measure where the breast tissue starts - you are aiming to measure your bones.
Other important measurements to consider…
Garment length
Our patterns are designed for women with a height of around 165cm / 5ft 5ins. If you are considerably taller or shorter you may wish to lengthen or shorten the pattern pieces. You will find length adjustment lines on most of our patterns.
To check the length of a top, measure from the point where your neck meets your shoulder then down over your bust to where you would like your hem to sit – taking into consideration the style of the garment.
Got your Number?
Now you know how to measure yourself correctly, find out how to use use your measurements to choose which pattern size to cut.
