How to… Line a top when using sheer or stretch fabric

6 Oct

Hi! Today I’m going to show you my favourite version that I’ve made so far of our Everyday Amazing Top and share with you how you can easily line it when using fancy or sheer fabrics.

I made this super sparkly top for my fiancé’s work Christmas do and then I have proceeded to wear it for pretty much every party over the Christmas period since! I used a rose gold sequin fabric and fully lined it with a soft poly-cotton nude colour jersey.

I went for the frill sleeve version. The frills look particularly nice with a little bit of the jersey lining peeking through and it feels lovely to wear.

The sequins were pretty easy to sew, surprisingly, but cutting was a different matter! Every time I cut into the fabric, sequins pinged everywhere. I took this project over to my friend Morven’s to make it – poor thing was still finding sequins a month later when I went round again – I would strongly recommend having a lint roller and vacuum cleaner to hand!

Transferring pattern markings has to be approached in a different way with a fancy fabric. I used tailor’s tacks and stitch marks to transfer the dart points and the frill placement line.

To line the top I just cut out exactly the same pieces; the two frill sleeves, one front and two backs – but not the facings – in the sequin fabric and then the same in the lining fabric.

I made up the frill sleeve first, placing the sequins and lining with right sides together, stitching around the outer curved edge and then clipping into the curve before turning it the right way out.

I used a pressing cloth to protect the sequins when giving it a good press. Both the sequin fabric and the jersey pressed surprisingly well to give it all a lovely clean finish.

I then stitched the two layers together very close to the edge. I snipped the corners of the frill to a point to reduce bulk where the frill sits in the dart.

I then joined the shoulder seams of the sequin fabric and inserted the frill as per the instructions (to the sequin layer only).

I continued to make up the garment following the instructions for using facings but using the jersey lining instead, to finish the armhole and neckline.

I hemmed the jersey lining slightly shorter than the outer layer, and I’m glad I did as the jersey had a little more stretch going down the grain of the fabric and cutting it shorter compensated for this.

I’m really happy with how the keyhole at the back looks. I finished it off with hand sewn embroidery thread loop and pearlised bronze colour button.

I wore my sparkly sequin Everyday Amazing Top for our launch party, layered up over a long sleeve top as it was a pretty chilly night! I felt glamorous and comfortable in equal measure!