How to… Do a bust adjustment on a Princess seamed bodice

It is vitally important to get a great fit on a princess seamed bodice, poor fit can create unsightly pulling gaping and rippling and completely ruin the look of the garment.

The great news is that fitting the bust with a princess seam is pretty simple, when you know how!

1.     On the bodice side-front piece, mark a point 2 cm from the apex

2.     Draw 2 lines:

-       From the waistline to the apex parallel to the grainline.

-       A diagonal line from 1/3 of the way up the armhole to the bust mark

3.     Cut and spread in the same way as the darted bodice

1.     On the side bodice piece, cut the horizontal line from the bust seam through the seam allowance to the bust mark. Straighten the adjustment so this cut line opens up and the cut edges are parallel with each other.

2.     Redraw the side bodice piece. You will need to remove the excess added at the waist by bringing the side seam in from point B to point C by the amount added at measurement A

3.     True up the front bodice piece to be the same length as the side bodice piece after the alteration*

·       To check the side bodice and the front bodice bust seams match up after the adjustment, you may like to draw on the seam allowances and “walk” the pattern pieces together.

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